Finished With the Finishing

 


Since I have moved away from film finishes and staining, finished is a lot easier and less daunting process than it once was. My go to finish these days is Osmo Polyx Hard Wax Oil. I think it came about as a durable finish for wood flooring until wood workers discovered that it would also work well in furniture finishes. It is simply a wipe on followed by wiping off any excess after a few minutes so there aren't any worries about runs or drips like I always did with film finishes. Also, because is not a stain, it is incredibly easy to touch up or to apply on any missed areas because you don't have to match colors. If something were to happen, I just have to sand out any imperfection and apply some more hard wax oil on that spot and it will blend in perfectly. After two coats and eight hours, I'm left with an incredibly durable finish that I can touch up years from now if needed without much effort.


Above is a photo of the underside of the top of the bookcase showing off a new to me method of marking my name for future people to know who built it should they want to. For the last ten years, I've used a wood brand to char my name some point on my projects but it isn't always the easiest to use. Too hot or holding it too long in one spot and it burns too much wood and becomes hard to read. Too little heat or not holding it long enough in one spot makes it faint and hard to read. Reapplying the brand to darken one that was too light is nearly impossible without ending up with a double image of sorts that it also impossible to read. 

I came across this solution in my Book of Face feed in one of those targeted ads. Essentially I can order metal markers made of brass with a custom logo and a corresponding template and router bit for my router. This allows me to easily mill out a pocket of wood the exact same size as the brass logo which I can then epoxy into the wood after the finishing process. It looks a lot nicer than the wood brand, will last the lifetime of the piece of furniture and will always be legible. I wish I had found these many decades ago.


Below is a closeup of my shelf mounting solution but take note that the shelf is upside down in this photo. It isn't the most elegant solution and had I been a professional designer, I could have come up with a better and invisible means to support the shelf but allow it to expand across the grain with temperature and humidity changes. But I'm not and so at the point when this thought occurred to me a hidden solution wasn't feasible. So I found some small brass brackets which I attached to the inside of the legs but not to the shelf. This allows heavy objects to be places on the shelves (which are doweled and glued in the middle of each shelf) and be supported while still allowing expansion. 

Finally, one more shot of it from the side so you can see the accent walnut vertical rails that I put on each side to contain those books from spilling off sideways. It also shows that those brass brackets on the outside corners of each shelf aren't very visible unless one is looking for them. I have hidden the shelf in my MIL's room (who has been in the Philippines for the last month and a half) where it will hopefully remain undiscovered until the eldest turns 20 here not to long from now and receive her birthday/apartment warming gift from her dad. Now it is onto my biggest project this year, a 12 drawer dresser. 



Comments

  1. I guess your family doesn’t read your blog. This is the way it goes. People across the world will read us bot not our own kith and kin.

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    1. My daughter doesn't anyway... that I know about.

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    2. It's beautiful! You must be very proud of it.

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    3. I'm pleased with the results though like most projects, there are some things I would do differently next time.

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  2. It's beautiful and would look great in my house! I like your new metal "brands".

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    1. I do too. I wish I had done that one some of the other pieces of furniture in my house that I've built. I suppose some of them I still could but it isn't worth the effort to do only that to them.

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  3. Great job! And yeah, the brass plate looks quite professional.

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    1. I'll thank the AI machine since it did the heavy lifting in the design area. I just told it what I was looking for.

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  4. What a lucky girl! An beautiful heirloom that is so well made and so very useful!

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  5. It's just great piece of furniture which has a great story.

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  6. It is a beauty! Well done, your daughter will be thrilled!

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  7. That bookcase looks fantastic—the walnut accents really pop against the finish. Your daughter is going to be thrilled with such a beautiful, well-engineered gift.

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  8. Beautiful!! Can I ask a finishing question? Feel free to ignore. My son inherited his great grandfathers pine “tool box” that he made long ago. It’s like a simple hope chest that he’s using as a toy box. It gives him splinters at least once a week-he’s 4.Weather is warming and I plan to take it out to sand and refinish it. Would the finish you mentioned above be good for this box or is there something better to prevent the pine from splintering again. I was originally thinking several layers of shellac. 😜

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    1. Likely both will work. Shellac is likely what it was finished with before because that was the standard for most antique furniture. Shellac though is a film finish so doesn’t really soak into wood and may not hold up well in a played with object. Hard wax oils soak into the wood so is a lot more durable but you won’t get that shine or feel that highly polished shellac coated furniture gives. Hard wax oil feels like wood when done where shellac has a more plastic like feel. I haven’t worked with shellac personally but have heard it is fairly easy to touch up late just like hard wax oils. Although hard wax oils dry quickly like shellac to the touch, the part that seeps into the wood fibers can take a week to fully cure versus a film of shellac that will be fully cured in less than a day. Shellac is likely harder to apply for a novice and most spray it in several coats to get desired coating where you can literally rub on and wipe off excess hard wax oil. It really depends on what you are trying for. My recommendation would be to get a small sample of both and try them out on the bottom or back where you easily sand it off again. This gives you a sense of application ease and feel.

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  9. It turned out so nice. And good for you for labeling your work. I recently inherited some antique family furniture and it is so helpful to have a label or stamp about the maker.

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    1. I am guilty of looking up names I have seen on furniture stamps.

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