Day Six

 


Confluence of the Rivers

The clouds of yesterday's late afternoon shower cleared out during the night and it dawned a beautiful day. However, it was a bit chilly when I woke up and for the first time since the start of the trip, I had to put on my jacket before packing up and walking down to the kitchen. Cooks Mary and Heidi were already heating up water so by the time I arrived, a steaming mug of hot cocoa was waiting for me. Life just doesn't get any better. Unless perhaps you have a few slices of perfectly ripened melons to munch on before a breakfast of French toast and sausage, which I did.

We struck camp and I rode in Elaina's boat for the day. We made good time even stopping once to scout out the massive Kwagunt Rapids before pulling in at the junction of the Colorado River with the Little Colorado River. The Colorado River is a beautiful emerald green in color and the Little Colorado laden with potassium carbonate is an extremely brilliant blue. Where they joined was a myriad of colors and breathtakingly beautiful. As we hiked up the Little Colorado to a little rapids about three fourths of a mile away, I had to scramble to keep up while stopping to take several rolls of pictures.

The day was warming up considerably so we put on our life jackets diaper like to protect our tailbones from rocks and floated through the rapids in train style where the person in front held onto your ankles and you held onto the ankles of the person behind you. It helped ensure that nobody got caught in a recirculating eddy at the bottom of the several small falls we went over. It was a lot of fun and we went over in various train combinations until we were all exhausted.

Confluence of the Rivers

Back at the confluence of both rivers, we ate a lunch of tuna salad sandwiches, potato chips and pecan cookies. During meals, I usually single out somebody to get to know better and learn about them. Today I talked with assistant cook Mary who turns out is the same age as I am. She lives up in Haines, Alaska that sounds beautiful but not someplace I could ever live. Living with several months of twilight and conversely several months of no darkness just doesn't sound appealing, especially the former.

After lunch, we hit the river and a couple big rapids, namely Lava Canyon Rapids and Tanner Canyon Rapids. Rapids in the Grand Canyon are very easy to locate with any topo map. All you have to do is look for where a side canyon enters the canyon proper and there is bound to be rapids. This is because rocks washed down from the side canyon during torrential flooding accumulate in the main canyon constricting the river and thus forming a rapid. Sometimes two side canyons on opposite sides of the canyon proper meet at the same place and usually that signals even bigger rapids than normal.

We pulled in early at mile 71 near Cardenas Creek. It is a nice camp with tons of individual camping among the tamarisk but was very hot. Today we passed a big fault and the constricting confines of Marble Canyon are now behind us and the wider more open canyon that many people associate with the name Grand Canyon has begun. If the fault weren't indication enough of this, the sudden appearance of hikers along the shore is another indication. We saw quite a few during today's float, another animal I can add to my "spotted" list.

After camp was set up, we set out on a short hike up to some Anasazi ruins. These ruins are theorized to be part of a lookout system of towers set up as an early warning device for unexpected visitors. From these ruins, you can see up to both sides of the canyon and ruins located there including the famous Desert View ruins on the South Rim. I think the Tartan Trail from there to the river was the one that I hiked down so many years ago.

Looking Back Towards Camp and Site of "Imminent Death" Photos

The rest of the group seemed content to just sit up by the ruins so Jorge and I hiked further up the nose about two or three miles to an incredibly exposed and beautiful lookout further up the canyon walls. I took quite a few pictures of flowers on the way back and we took several "imminent death" pictures of us sitting on an exposed overhanging ledge. When we got back to the saddle where the first ruins were situated, we ran into Bronco and Elaina who stayed behind when everyone else headed back to camp. We stayed and talked for a while before heading back to camp with them.

There waiting for us was some cheese and crackers that I enjoyed on the beach while watching the sun go down. I still can't get used to watching the sun go down so early due to the high horizon line of cliffs and having so much time to kill before it is even close to bedtime. For supper, we had grilled chicken quarters, mashed potatoes, coleslaw and cornbread. Because it was Don's birthday, we also had a carrot cake for dessert. After supper, everyone but Bronco, Nick and I went right to bed. The three of us sat up for a while talking about how they got started in the boating business and various hikes they had done in central Idaho. I likewise filled them in on the Wind River Mountains and Ozark Mountains, which I was familiar with. Their lifestyle is so appealing to me that I would love to give it a try sometime if only for a few months. Right now, my life back in Minnesota seems so distant and in the past.

Anasazi Lookout Ruins

Comments

  1. I can't get over the dramatic scenery and the amazing food. I love carrot cake! I've never been to Haines although one of my favorite writers lives there. A good friend lived in Anchorage for many years (now back in Washington) and the light/lack of was the very hardest thing to deal with. And the ice and cold. It's a gorgeous place to visit but I most certainly wouldn't want to live there. I like how you made it a goal to get to know a different person during meals. My parents used to do that when they travelled; learning about others' lives can be fascinating.

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    1. I took only 240 photos over three weeks. Had digital cameras been around, I’m sure I would have taken ten times that amount.

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    2. The quality of your photos is astounding.

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    3. I believe that the camera I had at the time was a Canon Rebel 35mm which was a great camera and did take great pictures. All my pictures I took were on slide film though and had faded a bit and suffered some scratches before I got them scanned in and then used some photo editing software to correct the fading and repair some of the scratching. I am a minimalist when it comes to editing photos so they should look fairly close to what it looked like in person.

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  2. Floating train style sounds kinda fun! Those heights make my heart drop into my stomach.

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    1. It definitely allowed us to float through a rapids I wouldn’t have attempted otherwise.

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  3. Is that the Unkar Delta with the ruins Ed? I probably have a similar shot.

    The meals sound amazing.

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  4. When you mention the Little Colorado I recall stopping at a canyon on the way to the grand one. It looked grand to me until I saw the real thing. This was on our way to the other entrance, not the main one. Natives had a market there. Anyway, I think Little Colorado was at least part of the name.

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    1. You indeed saw a river called the Little Colorado. When I was a young boy, my parents took me to see the Grand Canyon and we stopped at the Little Colorado on the way into the park and also the native American road stands too. I took my family back last spring but unfortunately, that entrance to the park was closed due to the local Indian tribe closing their lands to the public for Covid so I missed seeing the Little Colorado again. Back when I first saw it, there was nothing there other than a small sign denoting the name. I wondered if it has been developed into an attraction in its own right since.

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  5. Your youth and vigor were just right for this adventure - having the time of your life and getting the most out of it while you can.

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    1. Yes, I it would certainly be much different if I were to go again now

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  6. Still jealous of your adventure, Ed. The kids are interested in possibly rafting one of our rivers here in Idaho but I don't think it will come anywhere close to your scenery.

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    1. My parents took a trip down the Snake River years ago. I’ve never been there but the pictures certainly look beautiful.

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  7. You know, I meant to read up on the Anasazi Indians and finally got around to it tonight. (Filled with prime rib, the birthday boy has dozed off on the couch). Anyways, it was fascinating that in a 25 year range, they were simply gone. These posts are great to read.

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    1. Our guides talked a lot about their disappearance and possible reasons for it. I think the leading theory back then was a prolonged drought.

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  8. Wow! Those are truly awesome views! But oh gosh! Rocks? Tailbones? I'm glad you were protected.

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