Athens: Day Five

 


On day five, we decided a hike and a picnic was on order. So we headed via subway and walking to the central market marked on our maps. There, a series of alleyway's and stores, each containing some ingredient were located. For example, there was an entire large alleyway dedicated to seafood, another one for beef, another one for lamb, another one for fruits and veggies, etc. 


More seafood arranged on the ice. There were probably a dozen other tables that looked just like this one and sold the same basic seafood. From what I understand, each table, ran by a different person, built up a following of customers who always came back to them. But for us tourists, each owner shouted our way about having the best seafood and the lowest price which made selecting something difficult. 

Above is an example of one of these alleyways with a covered sunshade. As we arrived near the central market on foot, we saw hundreds of people who had already shopped and were heading back home with a half dozen blue bags ready to cook their food for the day.

Eventually we found the vegetable alley which looked like an open air version of the vegetable section of my local grocery store.

There were really colorful displays all around on the edges of the street.

A wider perspective of the fruit and vegetable alley.


Moving on we came to where vendors were selling lots of various nuts, something Greece grows a lot. Above was some sort of hazelnut or chestnut.


There were also lots of pistachios which grow abundantly in Greece. We bought several small bags over the trip but generally preferred the taste of American ones that grow mostly in California. Neither of us could really pinpoint the difference of why the preference.


There was also a lot of halva which is a Greek dessert type food made from sesame seeds and combined with different flavorings. 


Eventually, we ended up back at our suite with all of the above purchases, some for our picnic and some for another pasta dinner we ended up cooking for ourselves later that evening using the remainder of the pasta we picked up at Arachova. 


With sandwiches, salads and fruit prepared, we set our sights on the hill in the center background of the above photo, Mt. Lycabettus. It is the tallest hill in central Athens. We took the subway to the area below it and then hiked up a thousand steps until we got beyond the houses and up onto the greener part of the mountain. From there, we hiked a paved trail that switch backed up the mountain to a small platform on the very peak with 360 degree views.

From the top, we could see the Acropolis with the Parthenon and all the way to the Saronic sea in the background.  We sat on some benches on the top eating our lunch and admiring the view, happily, until one young man hiked up and despite being a stiff breeze, clouded up the entire 20 x 20 ft platform with his body odor. At one point, he came within about 4 feet of me and it was so pervasive that I was going to start retching if I didn't move which I quickly did to the upwind side of the platform. Fortunately he stayed for a few minutes and went back down. I'm not sure how anyone can have body odor that strong and not realize it's impact on those around him.


With our bellies full, we hiked back down the hill to the town below. I found it actually much harder going down than up and by the time we reached the subway entrance, my thighs were completely worn out. 

Back at the lower elevations looking back up the street we just walked down. The narrow streets, densely parked cars and five to six story buildings were pretty typical of most neighborhoods of Greece I walked through. We made it back to our suite and other than a trip to the local bakery for some water and carbonated lemonade, I was content to stay home and read the rest of the evening. 12,000 steps.

Comments

  1. Ed, The Ravishing Mrs. TB and Nighean Bhan did a food tour the day Nighean Dhonn and I went to Sparta and Mystras and reported the same sorts of things. Traditional food markets are interesting places, sadly replaced for the most part by the supermarket.

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    1. I have mixed emotions about them. I think the ingredients are by far of better quality since they aren't shipped there in bulk or sold in bulk. But I do kind of like the concept of pushing a cart within a confined space and getting all my ingredients in close proximity. As my wife said, it is really a mentality change. We go to the grocery store with a recipe in mind and buy ingredients for that recipe. Greeks go to the market and see what looks good and is available for a good price and go home to make something out of it.

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  2. I am curious about the carbonated lemonade! Body odor and people who shower in perfume and aftershave drive us nuts. This morning at the clinic two ladies perfumes were fighting with each other in the waiting room so we went to the hallway to wait.

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    1. It is everywhere in Greece. I have seen a carbonated lemonade flavored Fanta over here but my local stores don't carry it and it isn't nearly as flavorful or carbonated as the ones I found in Greece.

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    2. I too have had issues with too much perfumes as well. Once, a lady sat in front of me in church and the smell of her perfume gave me a headache within minutes.

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  3. I never realized just how crowded Athens is now. The market looks incredible. It would be a wonderful place to shop for fresh food.

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    1. Outside of the ring of venders/shops/restaurants around the base of the Acropolis, there really isn't so much crowding due to tourism. The auxiliary places we went to all had a few tourists but not nearly as many as I'm told come during our summer months. But it is a city of 5 million people so everywhere seemed crowded to me in general.

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  4. That hike was well worth it. What amazing views! I love markets in other countries; they are so fascinating. The ones in Senegal were overwhelming though. SO many people! The body odor would make me nauseous too. I find coming down hurts my thighs and makes me sore the day after. We don't use those muscles as much as our front ones.

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    1. The seafood and pork alleys were very crowded and you sort of just sidled from one gap to another to make progress down the alley. But by the time we got to the areas where the nuts, cheeses, fruits and vegetables were, they weren't crowded at all.

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  5. Beautiful spreads of produce and other foods! That's an interesting observation about the pistachios.

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    1. We both decided that it was just the salt content perhaps that was affecting our judgement. We were guessing the California ones had more salt and were thus more flavorful even if they weren't salty to our taste buds. The California ones were also bigger in size.

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  6. !2000 steps but everyone of them wee interesting.

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    1. My eyes were wide open whenever I was out and about.

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  7. Sue came across a very rank man at the store not too long ago. TG it doesn't happen much, but you do wonder how people can live like that.

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    1. I suppose they get used to the smell and can't smell it themselves but I would have thought that the actions of those around them might be a give away.

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  8. Looks like it was a great hike, but the market is especially fascinating. A glimpse into both cuisine and culture.

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  9. That's kind of funny about the stinky guy. (Easy for me to say, right?!) The views from that hilltop are amazing, especially the Parthenon with the city laid out below it.

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  10. Wow! Thank you for sharing this with us, Ed. I loved seeing all the delicious food you bought. That's an amazing view of the Acropolis. I've never seen it from that angle.

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